Flags waving at the end of the race
Jockeys getting ready
In Il Campo
The Owl Contrade flag throwersGood Day Everyone!
I just finished my last weekend in San Gemini! It is hard to believe we are on our last week here, especially since I have yet to write about some of my most favorite adventures!
The first weekend in July, after our weekend in Rome, a group of us went to Siena for the Palio. The Palio is one of the largest horse races with 60,000 people filling into Il Campo to watch the festivities. We arrived in the morning to sightsee and take in the atmosphere before the big race. Jane, our professor and main coordinator of the dig, has been to the Palio many times and was able to show us around. We did some quick touristy things- almost at a dead sprint- before picking our teams and joining the fun. Each team, or contrade, is a neighborhood of Siena, with its own parish, fans, colors, and mascot. I wasn't sure which contrade I would root for until I saw the unmistakable shape of an old family friend- the owl.
With my maroon and black scarf proudly around my shoulders, and the other students and advisors wearing their contrade's colors, we ran around the city, following the sound of the beating drums and participating in the chaos that was the event. From horse blessings to flag throwing, every contrade had a parade marching through the narrow streets with their entourage trailing behind. Jane was able to get us to a small square which was a stop on everyone's parade root so we could watch all the contrades show off their best flag throwers while the rest of the parade's participants looked on. I forget the name of the main leader of the parade but he looks just like a knight dressed head to toe in armor. It is not hard to see the Palio's medieval roots and imagine a time when they weren't just around for show.
The 'kids' decided to participate in the actual race rather than watching it in a bar like the 'oldies' were doing. To get into the equivalent of the infield, you had to be in Il Campo by 5:00 pm. Then they lock the gates and you are able to watch the pre-race parade and festivities before the actual race at 8:00 pm. We were excited to be on the infield with everyone else, packed in like sardines and our thrill lasted until the first person had to pee. After a quick look around without seeing any obvious bathrooms, Tim went to ask a police officer standing in the middle of the piazza. He came back with a look of shock and uncertainty on his face. "Dove il bagno?" we asked. The polizia had responded with the Italian word for "plastic bottle." After a few propositions suggesting the making of a "circle of trust" in which the girls shot down violently, we all decided to give up the liquids and hope for the best.
The parade was amazing and the flag throwers were fantastic. The two biggest white oxen I have ever seen pulled an Italian style float of important people and their own mini band around the track at the conclusion of the parade. Finally the horses came out, decked in their colors. The jockeys hung on as the horses reared and ran in impatient anticipation. There are no saddles so staying on throughout this frenzy is remarkable enough without the added jockey on jockey violence. Right before the race, the entire town silenced. I stood as still as possible, listening to a child on the other side of piazza cough while we waited for the line-up to be announced. I cheered when I heard the owl contrade and Tim and Luke proudly screamed, "Gooooooseee!" for their team as well.
The horses finally lined up. We all held our breath as false start after false start happened and the horses were called back to the line. Suddenly they were all off! We could see the muscles in the horses as the jockies forced their bodies forward. They hit the first 90-degree corner so fast; I finally understood the meaning of 'break neck speeds.' I almost screamed as the first horse slamed into the wall and the rider was lost below our line of vision. The horse however continued to sprint (a horse can win the race without the rider) and we could not look away from their furious chase. We were one with the crowd, screaming with amazement and excitement for what seemed like longer than the 60 seconds the race actually took.
I could not believe it when the goose contrade stormed the field, shaking the ground beneath us more than the horses did. Tim and Luke had obnoxiously been overusing the word "goose" all day, from whispers into our ears to screaming it in English at Italian contrade members. They went nuts. It was like they grew up on the streets of Siena wearing their parents' scarves like the rest of the contrade. The palio banner was handed over to the goose contrade proudly as we found the exit and wearily made our way to the car.
It was a memorable and whirlwind day, one I will not soon forget. Afterwards we googled videos of the race (you can too- it is up on youtube) and watched from a different perspective. Many riders fell off- I don't know if I only saw the first one or only remembered the first one as it is still so clear in my mind; it gives me a rush of panic to my chest to think about. The owl jockey did not fall off, but their loosing streak continues (I think it is up to 98 years now...). We also get to brag about seeing Shania Twain upon leaving the Palio as one of our memories of being there.
I obviously thought of my horse loving family and continue to think of everyone back home as I continue my adventures.
Next post: Assisi and Perugia.
I just finished my last weekend in San Gemini! It is hard to believe we are on our last week here, especially since I have yet to write about some of my most favorite adventures!
The first weekend in July, after our weekend in Rome, a group of us went to Siena for the Palio. The Palio is one of the largest horse races with 60,000 people filling into Il Campo to watch the festivities. We arrived in the morning to sightsee and take in the atmosphere before the big race. Jane, our professor and main coordinator of the dig, has been to the Palio many times and was able to show us around. We did some quick touristy things- almost at a dead sprint- before picking our teams and joining the fun. Each team, or contrade, is a neighborhood of Siena, with its own parish, fans, colors, and mascot. I wasn't sure which contrade I would root for until I saw the unmistakable shape of an old family friend- the owl.
With my maroon and black scarf proudly around my shoulders, and the other students and advisors wearing their contrade's colors, we ran around the city, following the sound of the beating drums and participating in the chaos that was the event. From horse blessings to flag throwing, every contrade had a parade marching through the narrow streets with their entourage trailing behind. Jane was able to get us to a small square which was a stop on everyone's parade root so we could watch all the contrades show off their best flag throwers while the rest of the parade's participants looked on. I forget the name of the main leader of the parade but he looks just like a knight dressed head to toe in armor. It is not hard to see the Palio's medieval roots and imagine a time when they weren't just around for show.
The 'kids' decided to participate in the actual race rather than watching it in a bar like the 'oldies' were doing. To get into the equivalent of the infield, you had to be in Il Campo by 5:00 pm. Then they lock the gates and you are able to watch the pre-race parade and festivities before the actual race at 8:00 pm. We were excited to be on the infield with everyone else, packed in like sardines and our thrill lasted until the first person had to pee. After a quick look around without seeing any obvious bathrooms, Tim went to ask a police officer standing in the middle of the piazza. He came back with a look of shock and uncertainty on his face. "Dove il bagno?" we asked. The polizia had responded with the Italian word for "plastic bottle." After a few propositions suggesting the making of a "circle of trust" in which the girls shot down violently, we all decided to give up the liquids and hope for the best.
The parade was amazing and the flag throwers were fantastic. The two biggest white oxen I have ever seen pulled an Italian style float of important people and their own mini band around the track at the conclusion of the parade. Finally the horses came out, decked in their colors. The jockeys hung on as the horses reared and ran in impatient anticipation. There are no saddles so staying on throughout this frenzy is remarkable enough without the added jockey on jockey violence. Right before the race, the entire town silenced. I stood as still as possible, listening to a child on the other side of piazza cough while we waited for the line-up to be announced. I cheered when I heard the owl contrade and Tim and Luke proudly screamed, "Gooooooseee!" for their team as well.
The horses finally lined up. We all held our breath as false start after false start happened and the horses were called back to the line. Suddenly they were all off! We could see the muscles in the horses as the jockies forced their bodies forward. They hit the first 90-degree corner so fast; I finally understood the meaning of 'break neck speeds.' I almost screamed as the first horse slamed into the wall and the rider was lost below our line of vision. The horse however continued to sprint (a horse can win the race without the rider) and we could not look away from their furious chase. We were one with the crowd, screaming with amazement and excitement for what seemed like longer than the 60 seconds the race actually took.
I could not believe it when the goose contrade stormed the field, shaking the ground beneath us more than the horses did. Tim and Luke had obnoxiously been overusing the word "goose" all day, from whispers into our ears to screaming it in English at Italian contrade members. They went nuts. It was like they grew up on the streets of Siena wearing their parents' scarves like the rest of the contrade. The palio banner was handed over to the goose contrade proudly as we found the exit and wearily made our way to the car.
It was a memorable and whirlwind day, one I will not soon forget. Afterwards we googled videos of the race (you can too- it is up on youtube) and watched from a different perspective. Many riders fell off- I don't know if I only saw the first one or only remembered the first one as it is still so clear in my mind; it gives me a rush of panic to my chest to think about. The owl jockey did not fall off, but their loosing streak continues (I think it is up to 98 years now...). We also get to brag about seeing Shania Twain upon leaving the Palio as one of our memories of being there.
I obviously thought of my horse loving family and continue to think of everyone back home as I continue my adventures.
Next post: Assisi and Perugia.
1 comment:
After viewing the Palio on YouTube, it is clear why the wise owl contrada has a losing streak, as they allow the rest of the teams to risk breaking their foolish necks in a race to win! Go Owls! May your losing streak continue. From a member of your horse loving family. xom
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